Up next 800WHP LS Swapped Twin Turbo Toyota Pickup Published on December 06, 2022 Author JOSH MCPHERSON Share article Facebook 0 Twitter 0 Mail 0 Making Steady Progress on Our ’67 C10 Project last chance Part 2 We have been hard at work on Project Last Chance and have made a lot of progress since the last update. To recap, we powdercoated and reassembled the frame with a Boyd Welding fuel cell, installed CPP drop spindles, Performance Online disc brake kit and C-notch, and set the LS1 and 4L60e in place. In this issue we work on installing the rest of our major components and prep the truck for C&K Metal. Since we are running a Holley Performance intake, oil pan, and accessory drive kit we decided to get the Hooker BlackHeart engine and trans mounts. Check out how the trans crossmember is made to clear the exhaust. Subscribe to our weekly newsletter Next we installed Holley’s mid mount blacked out accessory drive kit with ATI Super Damper. This accessory drive kit is very easy to install with detailed instructions that really make the install process fool proof. The integrated brackets for the accessories on the water pump housing really keeps the accessories tight to the motor. These Holley Performance two-piece valve covers give our LS1 that old-school look with the classic Chevrolet script and by hiding the MSD Ignition coil packs. The Holley Hi-Ram intake might be a bit overkill for a naturally aspirated LS1 with stock heads, but will be the perfect intake once we add heads, cam, and a turbo. We selected 42 lb/hr injectors that are good for up to 670hp a 92mm throttle body, which will work perfectly with our setup. Leadfoot Racings sells Champion Radiators, and this is a direct fit LS Swap aluminum radiator that has the radiator inlets both on the passenger side. We went with the company’s 14-inch SPAL fans and radiator shroud that bolted right up. Now that most of the parts are on the frame, we can turn our attention to the body. We used our engine hoist and a heavy-duty trailer strap to rotate the cab on its back onto a makeshift cab dolly we put together. With the cab mobile we were able to get a mobile sand blaster to come by and blast the underside of the cab, leaving a 100% clean and rust-free surface to apply an undercoating. For the cab undercoating we ordered some Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation and Sound Deadener from Summit Racing with some Spray Max 2K Epoxy Primer. Once the surface was prepped with the primer, we applied two coats of the sound deadener and insulation. Rotating the cab from its back to right side up was more of a challenge than flipping it on its back. If you plan to do this be sure to invite some strong friends over to help. With the cab setting upright we installed our 4×4 on the engine hoist to lift the cab and reinstall on the frame. Shout out to my Dad, Wayne, for coming over and helping me with the heavy lifting. With the body back on the frame we can start mounting other parts like our Choppin Block battery relocator, Summit Racing universal e-brake kit, and steering column with linkage. Once we started seeing the truck come together and there was no hiding the stock knock sensor wiring or steam port vent tubing with that beautiful hi-ram intake, we picked up some ICT Billet knock sensor relocators, billet valley pan, and this very nice Earl’s performance Steam Vent Kit P/N LS0036ERL. We picked up a set of Speed Engineering Headers and plug wires. With a little massaging we were able to get the headers to fit perfectly and wrapped them in some DEI titanium exhaust heat wrap. The Vintage Air Surefit Kit is a great system. This cab is originally a non-A/C cab, and this Vintage Air kit comes with OE-style vents along with templates to precisely cut the dash to install them. This kit also allows you to use your original heater control by installing electronic sensors where the original cables connected. The Terminator X Max harness fell right into place, and I was able to hide the harness that runs to the front of the motor behind the fuel rail for a really clean look. I only needed to open the harness to move one connection. Since Holley used split loom to cover the harness this was very easy to do. Now that the bulk of our work is done, it’s time to reassemble the front clip. This is the first time the fenders and hood have been installed in over 10 years. Our friends over at C&K Metal Work will take it from here. Chris and his team are going to run a custom wire harness, connect power, run exhaust, and get this truck ready for the first fire. Scan with your smartphone camera to watch now! Holley LS Front Runner Kit Install Holley Performance Hi-Ram Intake and Fuel Rails Cool or C10 with Champion Radiators Setting the Body on our 1967 C10 Check out part 1 HERE
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