Up next 2018 SEMA SHOW VIDEOS Published on November 02, 2018 Author JEFF LILLY RESTORATIONS Tags dented fender, dented metal, dented truck, hammer and dolly technique, how to get a dent out of a fender, how to get a dent out of a truck fender, how to hammer out dents in metal, how to pop a dent out of a metal fender, how to pound out a dent, slap file, Share article Facebook 0 Twitter 0 Mail 0 Trade Secrets – How to re-shape dented metal CLASSIC TRUCK DENT REMOVAL MOST CLASSIC TRUCKS have been used and abused. Our precious pickups lived rough lives earning their keep, and after decades of hard work, they’ve earned the right to be treated like family members. Once they’ve contributed 50 to 80 years of reliable service, classic trucks usually need a little love, and getting them back in shape means dealing with a load of dented metal. Don’t despair; we have the answer for what ails your truck. Gather a few hand tools and follow our tips and you, too, can achieve excellent results to get your hardest working family member in better-than-new shape. Although we used a ’54 Ford as our example, thick metal is thick metal and these techniques will work on your truck whether it’s a Chevy, Dodge, Studebaker, International, etc. Classic truck bodies were built tough, so get ready for another century’s worth of use from your pickup.Subscribe to our weekly newsletter A familiar foe is the front fender of a 1954 Ford F-100. The mega dents make it a perfect example to demonstrate our favorite techniques. The average person might think this fender is too rough to use, but we know how difficult it is to get good sheet metal, and since it’s mostly rust free and our metal meister can easily repair dents, the decision to fix rather than scrap is clear. We marked the fender for hammer and slap-file work and pindent removal. Using a straightedge, we determined the depth of each dent in order to choose the correct dolly and hammer to use. Hammer weight and how much metal needs to be moved, along with gauge thickness, are important considerations. This one is shallow so a lighter hammer and/or less strike force should be used. We started at the back of the fender using a high crown dolly and medium weight hammer. We flipped the fender upside down to show the exact location. We placed the high crown dolly directly on the highest point to demonstrate, and then we flipped the fender back over to perform the techniques. Holding the dolly as previously instructed, we tapped with medium pressure, making sure to contact squarely with each blow. We did this in a circle all around the perimeter on the outer edge of the dent. We held the dolly in the center of the backside and the metal started to release and return to its original shape. Once the dent was roughed out, we repeated the process using a slapping spoon. This tool allows more surface contact than a hammer with less strike force, so it’s great for finishing smaller imperfections. We continued working from the outer perimeter in a circle towards the center using the spoon slapper. Once all of the dents were worked out, we blasted the surface then block sanded it with 80 grit to remove any remaining spots. We checked for the right contour and were pleased with the results. Using an oval dolly we worked out the little details. The slapping file pulls the dent out by allowing the metal to release into the file teeth as it strikes the surface. “Reverse shrinking” is what the old-timers call it. This is a slow but sure method that you can master with a little practice. A close-up shows the serrated teeth were making contact on the high/level spots, indicating that the low, untouched areas needed further attention. The key is to hold the dolly in the low, untouched section as you tap it with the file and the action will pull out the dent. This spot is smaller, so we used a round dome dolly, which is excellent for placement in tight areas and for working out small imperfections. We’re almost finished. DA sanding and a final check are the last steps. The fender is primer-ready with no filler needed. Another dent removal technique deploys a stud welder, which is useful when you don’t have access to the back of the metal. We found the center and welded on a stud to begin the process. The fender was ready for a pull. The baby slide hammer made short work of the job. Using the hand tool, we tapped around the perimeter while pulling 5 pounds of pressure and the dent began to work out. Once the dent was removed as much as possible, we simply cut off the pin and ground it flush. We also used a long-handled dolly for hard-to-reach areas. We placed the long-handled dolly in position and began to tap out the dent. We used the slap file to raise the surface. The fender was looking good after it had been thoroughly touched by the serrated file teeth. Finally, we sanded it smooth and made a final check. We’re ready to rock! With time and patience you can get great results by banging out dents. SOURCE • Jeff Lilly Restorations 11125 f.m. 1560 Helotes, TX 78023 210.695.5151 Jefflilly.com FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS What are the advantages of using magnets over traditional dent removal rods? Advantages of Using Magnets Over Traditional Dent Removal Rods Precision and Control: Neodymium magnets combined with steel balls offer a precise and controlled way to fix dents. Unlike traditional rods that can accidentally push too far, this method ensures controlled movement. The ball, guided by the magnet, rolls to exactly where it’s needed, smoothing out the dent without risking overcorrection. Reduced Risk of Damage: With traditional rods, there’s always a possibility of creating an unwanted bump or “outie” by pushing too hard. The magnetic method avoids this issue since the ball stops exactly at the surface level, dragged along by the magnet’s pull. This minimizes secondary damage often seen with manual rods. Ease of Use: The magnetic system simplifies the process, making it accessible even if you don’t have professional repair skills. Simply place the ball on the inside of the dent and use the magnet externally. The magnetic attraction naturally draws the ball outward, effectively removing the dent. Non-intrusive: There’s no need to apply excessive force with tools or risk compromising the structural integrity of the material. This method is gentle on the surface and respects the original form, offering a seamless finish. This technique represents a shift towards more intuitive and less invasive dent repair options, ideal for those seeking a balance of efficiency and safety without needing advanced technical skills. How do neodymium magnets and steel balls work for dent removal? How to Use Neodymium Magnets and Steel Balls for Dent Removal If you’re a parent of a high-school saxophonist with a penchant for vintage instruments, you might find yourself juggling repair duties to keep your costs in check. Though dents don’t impact the sound of the saxophone, they can be unsightly. Luckily, there’s an innovative method to tackle these blemishes—using neodymium magnets and steel balls. The Basics of Dent Removal Neodymium magnets paired with steel balls provide an effective way to remove dents, acting almost like magic in the right circumstances: Positioning: Insert the steel ball inside the saxophone. Magnet Placement: Place the magnet on the exterior at the spot of the dent. The magnet’s powerful pull draws the steel ball up against the dent, rolling it back to shape precisely. This method offers a clear advantage over traditional rods since the ball cannot push beyond the magnet’s force, avoiding the risk of creating a bulge. Safety Precautions While effective, this technique comes with potential hazards: Strong Attraction: The magnetic pull increases exponentially as the ball nears the magnet. Even a slight movement can cause the ball to accelerate rapidly, possibly breaking a finger or pinching your skin. Safe Storage: Handle with care and store the magnets securely. A recommended spot is a corner where a metal plate exists, ensuring the magnet remains in place. Considerations and Tips Material Compatibility: This method works mainly on non-ferrous materials, so verify the instrument’s composition beforehand. Scratch Prevention: To avoid scratching the instrument’s surface, cover the magnet with a protective layer such as felt or a Teflon sheet. By following these guidelines, you can maintain the aesthetics of your saxophone without breaking the bank. Can this magnet and steel ball technique be used on cars? The magnet and steel ball technique is an innovative approach often used for small-scale repairs, notably in machinery with accessible inner surfaces. However, when it comes to car dent repairs, this technique may not be effective. Here’s Why: Material Compatibility: Most car bodies are made of metal, but not all metals respond well to magnets. Many car panels are composed of materials like aluminum or alloys, which are not magnetic. Access Issues: Car dents often occur in areas that are challenging to reach from the inside, making it difficult to position a steel ball effectively. Size of Dents: The method is typically suitable for tiny indents. Car dents, which vary in size and shape, usually require a more comprehensive approach. Precision Needed: Car exteriors require a smooth, flawless finish that this basic technique might not achieve, potentially necessitating professional bodywork. Although it’s an intriguing concept, the magnet and steel ball technique is not recommended for car dent repairs. For best results, consider traditional methods or consult a professional auto body technician. What materials are suitable for dent removal using magnets and steel balls? When it comes to dent removal with magnets and steel balls, the choice of materials is crucial. Magnets tend to adhere to ferromagnetic materials, which can hinder the process of moving them freely over the surface to allow the steel ball to work effectively. Therefore, non-magnetic metals are ideal. Suitable Materials for Dent Removal: Copper: Non-magnetic, allowing smooth movement of magnets. Brass: Also non-magnetic, making it easy for magnets to glide. Aluminum: Lightweight and non-magnetic, perfect for this technique. Certain Stainless Steel Alloys: Some stainless steels are non-magnetic and can be used effectively. By using these materials, the magnets can move freely, helping the steel balls to eliminate dents efficiently. What safety precautions should be taken when using strong magnets for dent removal? Safety Precautions for Using Strong Magnets in Dent Removal When handling powerful magnets for dent removal, it’s crucial to prioritize safety. Here’s a guide to ensure you use these magnets safely and effectively: Understand Magnetic Force Exponential Attraction: Be aware that the magnetic pull intensifies dramatically as magnets move closer together. Keep them at a safe distance initially to avoid accidents. Potential Hazards: Once a magnetic object is within half an inch, it can move rapidly, posing risk of injury by pinching or breaking skin. Handling Techniques Storage: Avoid placing strong magnets in drawers where they may interact unexpectedly. Opt for a secure location, such as where two walls and a ceiling meet with metal support, to minimize unintended movement. Separation Difficulty: After magnets are joined, separating them can be challenging. To reduce risk: Slide rather than pull magnets apart when possible. Ensure no body parts are in between during this process to avoid injury. Precautionary Measures Non-ferrous Materials: Note that this method is effective only on non-ferrous (non-magnetic) surfaces. Protective Barriers: To prevent scratches or damage to the magnet’s surface, cover it with a protective layer such as felt or a Teflon sheet. By following these precautions, you can safely use strong magnets in your dent removal projects while minimizing the risk of injury or damage. What are some techniques for removing dents from musical instruments? Techniques for Removing Dents from Musical Instruments Removing dents from musical instruments can seem daunting, but with the right approach, it’s surprisingly manageable. Whether you’re a parent of a budding musician or a DIY enthusiast, a few techniques can help restore the pristine look of instruments without causing further damage. 1. Using Neodymium Magnets and Steel Balls This innovative method is excellent for non-ferrous instruments like those made of copper, brass, and aluminum. Here’s how it works: Interior and Exterior Combination: Place a steel ball inside the instrument and a neodymium magnet on the exterior surface where the dent is located. Magnetic Magic: The powerful magnetic pull causes the steel ball to roll towards the magnet, effectively smoothing out the dent. Advantages: Unlike traditional rods, this technique minimizes the risk of creating an “outie” because the steel ball can’t move beyond the magnet’s pull. Caution: These magnets are extremely strong and can be dangerous if not handled properly. Ensure you follow safety guidelines while using them. 2. Traditional Dent Removal Rods Ideal for ferrous materials and varying types of instruments: Manual Precision: This method involves inserting a rod into the instrument and manually pushing out the dent. Skill Requirement: Requires practice and precision to avoid over-correcting the dent and creating bulges. 3. Professional Repair Services Sometimes, the best option is to consult a professional: Expert Handling: Professionals have the tools and expertise to handle all types of instruments and materials safely. Comprehensive Repair: They can address not just dents, but also other maintenance needs to ensure optimal performance. Each technique has its unique advantages and limitations, but with careful consideration and execution, you can successfully tackle those pesky dents and keep your instrument looking and sounding its best. How can magnets affect electronic equipment? How Magnets Can Impact Electronic Equipment Magnets, particularly powerful ones, can significantly disrupt electronic devices. This is primarily due to their strong magnetic fields, which can interfere with the delicate components inside these devices. Dangers of Strong Magnets Magnetic Fields and Data Storage: Devices that rely on magnetic data storage, such as hard drives, are particularly vulnerable. The magnetic field can alter or erase the data stored on these devices. Proximity Matters: The danger escalates when multiple strong magnets come close together. Their collective magnetic pull can be strong enough to cause irreparable damage by altering the normal function of electronic components. Protective Measures: Due to these risks, it’s crucial to handle these magnets with caution. Workers often use heavy gloves to prevent physical harm, but it’s equally important to ensure they are kept at a safe distance from electronic equipment. By understanding how magnets interact with electronics, we can take steps to protect sensitive devices from their potentially disruptive influence. How can I fix dents in metal? Trade Secrets – How to Re-shape Dented Metal CLASSIC TRUCK DENT REMOVAL MOST CLASSIC TRUCKS have been used and abused. Our precious pickups lived rough lives earning their keep, and after decades of hard work, they’ve earned the right to be treated like family members. Once they’ve contributed 50 to 80 years of reliable service, classic trucks usually need a little love, and getting them back in shape means dealing with a load of dented metal. Don’t despair; we have the answer for what ails your truck. Gather a few hand tools and follow our tips and you, too, can achieve excellent results to get your hardest working family member in better-than-new shape. Although we used a ’54 Ford as our example, thick metal is thick metal and these techniques will work on your truck whether it’s a Chevy, Dodge, Studebaker, International, etc. Classic truck bodies were built tough, so get ready for another century’s worth of use from your pickup. Hammer and Dolly Technique A familiar foe is the front fender of a 1954 Ford F-100. The mega dents make it a perfect example to demonstrate our favorite techniques. The average person might think this fender is too rough to use, but we know how difficult it is to get good sheet metal, and since it’s mostly rust-free and our metal meister can easily repair dents, the decision to fix rather than scrap is clear. We marked the fender for hammer and slap-file work and pindent removal. Using a straightedge, we determined the depth of each dent in order to choose the correct dolly and hammer to use. Hammer weight and how much metal needs to be moved, along with gauge thickness, are important considerations. This one is shallow so a lighter hammer and/or less strike force should be used. We started at the back of the fender using a high crown dolly and medium weight hammer. We flipped the fender upside down to show the exact location. We placed the high crown dolly directly on the highest point to demonstrate, and then we flipped the fender back over to perform the techniques. Holding the dolly as previously instructed, we tapped with medium pressure, making sure to contact squarely with each blow. We did this in a circle all around the perimeter on the outer edge of the dent. We held the dolly in the center of the backside and the metal started to release and return to its original shape. Once the dent was roughed out, we repeated the process using a slapping spoon. This tool allows more surface contact than a hammer with less strike force, so it’s great for finishing smaller imperfections. We continued working from the outer perimeter in a circle towards the center using the spoon slapper. Once all of the dents were worked out, we blasted the surface then block sanded it with 80 grit to remove any remaining spots. We checked for the right contour and were pleased with the results. Using an oval dolly we worked out the little details. The slapping file pulls the dent out by allowing the metal to release into the file teeth as it strikes the surface. “Reverse shrinking” is what the old-timers call it. This is a slow but sure method that you can master with a little practice. A close-up shows the serrated teeth were making contact on the high/level spots, indicating that the low, untouched areas needed further attention. The key is to hold the dolly in the low, untouched section as you tap it with the file and the action will pull out the dent. This spot is smaller, so we used a round dome dolly, which is excellent for placement in tight areas and for working out small imperfections. We’re almost finished. DA sanding and a final check are the last steps. The fender is primer-ready with no filler needed. Magnetic Dent Removal Another innovative approach for those stubborn dents, especially in non-ferrous materials, involves using neodymium magnets and steel balls. This technique is like magic when applied correctly. Place the steel ball inside the dented area and the magnet on the outside. The powerful magnetic pull allows the ball to roll out the dent without the risk of creating an “outie,” as the ball stops at the magnet. Caution: These magnets are incredibly strong and can be dangerous. Store them safely, possibly in a corner where a metal joining plate is present, to prevent unexpected collisions. Always cover the magnet’s surface with felt or a Teflon sheet to avoid scratching the metal. Stud Welder and Slide Hammer Another dent removal technique deploys a stud welder, which is useful when you don’t have access to the back of the metal. We found the center and welded on a stud to begin the process. The fender was ready for a pull. The baby slide hammer made short work of the job. Using the hand tool, we tapped around the perimeter while pulling 5 pounds of pressure and the dent began to work out. Once the dent was removed as much as possible, we simply cut off the pin and ground it flush. We also used a long-handled dolly for hard-to-reach areas. We placed the long-handled dolly in position and began to tap out the dent. We used the slap file to raise the surface. The fender was looking good after it had been thoroughly touched by the serrated file teeth. Finally, we sanded it smooth and made a final check. We’re ready to rock! With time and patience, you can get great results by banging out dents. By combining traditional techniques with innovative methods, you can restore your classic truck to its former glory. Whether you’re using time-tested hammer and dolly work or experimenting with magnetic magic, the key is patience and precision. How can you prevent additional damage during the process? To avoid scratching the surface of the metal, it’s recommended to cover the magnet with a protective layer, such as felt or a Teflon sheet. What materials are suitable for this method? This technique is likely only effective on non-ferrous materials, as ferrous metals can interfere with the magnetic process. What are the safety concerns and precautions associated with this method? The strong magnets can be dangerous, capable of causing injuries like finger fractures or skin pinches if handled carelessly. It’s important to store them safely, away from easy access, to avoid accidental collisions. What are the advantages of using this method over traditional methods? One major advantage is that there is no risk of creating outward dents, or “outies,” because the ball is confined by the magnet’s position, ensuring it doesn’t push the metal too far. How does this method work? The technique requires placing a steel ball inside the dent and a neodymium magnet on the outside. The magnetic attraction is so powerful that it pulls the ball across the interior surface, effectively smoothing out the dent. What is a unique method for removing dents in non-ferrous metals? A unique method involves using neodymium magnets paired with steel balls to roll out dents. This approach leverages the strong magnetic pull to reshape the metal without traditional tools.
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